The Last Snow..and the World is a Very Small Place

1/ & 2/ Graeme enjoying the last powder run of the season. Not bad for 20 April?

Last ski at Les Grand Montets, Chamonix today. To celebrate the occasion, Hughie ("the weather god") turned on some boot-top powder for us. Actually it was a day of 2 seasons, winter at 3300m - 2800m and spring below 2800m.

When skiing in Chamonix, never forget to pack the goggles! It might be fine and sunny and positively hot at the valley floor. But as we experienced today, at the top of the LGM cable car (3300m) it was still winter with driving snow and a strong easterly wind. But what a treat! Once off the windblasted top lift station we enjoyed about 500m boot-top powder before the mountain remembered it was April and the snow turned heavy and wet. What a way to end our skiing in Chamonix! Thanks Hughie!!

2/ Andy getting amongst it. Aaaha..that's what I do with the right leg?

But the classic Oxley moment came during our 3rd visit to the top of the LGM cable car. After climbing down the steep stairs to begin our ski, we were approached by an older English chap who started to make conversation with us. Edward was skiing on his own and asked whether he could join us for the run down the glacier. Warning him that we were no speed freaks ( I suspect he knew that already and he'd picked his targets well) we invited him to join us.

The Pointe de Vue (and our Oxley variation) is a huge glacial run. With a few rests along the way it usually takes us about 30 - 40 minutes. Ed, a Chamonix local, was keen to show us a couple of his variations. As we made our way down the mountain, we learned that his daughter was currently on her way to NZ and later that his sister was also a "kiwiphile" and have visited many times, with Wanaka being her favourite place.

We also learned that he was friends with Ken & Pat from Ireland who we had met on one of our first trips to Chamonix.

4/ Andy & Ed...what are the chances?

One more stop along the mountain and the circle of coincidence continued to close. Ed, explained that his niece, Stephanie had done a winter of cross-country training in Wanaka, and that his sister, an Alexander Technique teacher, had seriously contemplated moving to Wanaka. Alarm bells started to ring in my head. I knew this lady. "Your sister wouldn't happen to be Hilary Cook would it?" Mouth agape, Ed couldn't believe the coincidence. I explained that Hilary Cook used to stay with us Te Wanaka Lodge.

How small is this planet?

We See the Sun & Start to Work Things Out!

Today, for the first time since we arrived in Livigno, the sun poked its head out for the morning. The freezing level has been quite high and while it has been snowing steadily since we arrived, there has not been much accumulation in the village (1800m) - only about 10cm or so. But higher up the mountain, a good 20 - 30cm of light snow has fallen overnight. The Livigno ski resort is split into 2 areas on either side of the valley. To the east, is Mottolino resort (2785m) and on the western side of the village is Carosello at (2797m).

1/ Livigno's great facilities!

The clocks moved forward here last night, but I still managed to be too early for the morning bread run. While I waited for the shops to open, I had a good opportunity to stretch the legs and see a little further into the village.

Livigno is obviously doing well. There are few run-down buildings or signs of neglect. All the buildings are beautifully decorated with Italian friezes, there are also great facilities like a full theatre, convention centres, ice-hockey stadium, skating rinks and climbing wall (with ice-climbing no less!!).

2/ Newer stone & concrete buildings but beautifully decorated with Italian friezes

The early morning start proved to be a stroke of genius! Powder snow! Italians, like the French don't seem to be early risers. Don't you just love that? Freshies all morning on and off-piste! Here's the footage! Actually worth looking at. Cinematography will never be my forte but today I managed to take some half decent footage with a coherent commentary.

3/ The true Telemarker of the Family!

I will confess that I cheated and did not take out the misery sticks ("telemarks") this morning. The snow was too good to be wasted or "tasted" if you know what I mean? Continuing to try the demo skis, I had a run on a Swiss brand called Movement Yakajam's. Mike rented these skis when he visited and loved them. I can understand why. They were so stable on and off-piste. But being 178cm I really had to work pretty hard to drive them....hmmmm. The temptation. I have become quite lazy on my 165cm Dynastar Legends. Maybe it's time to go a bit longer again? The internal debate is sure to continue!

Later in the morning, we spied a large group of telemarkers heading off into the back-country for their excursion. We were really not quite sure how these excursions worked and whether there was an additional charge. Back at the La Skieda headquarters in the afternoon, (a huge sporting/conference centre near the Carosello Gondola), we learned that not only were the excursions free but so were the "telemark" clinics.

What a bargain! Free mountain guiding and lessons?? Sign us up! A ski tour tomorrow morning and a lesson the next afternoon with John Falkiner, an expat Aussie who now lives in Verbier. John is actually a bit of a legend. A serious daredevil in his past, he has been a ski stuntman for numerous films including the James Bond movies.

"Right oh!" Now we are starting to get the "hang of this festival". Just get out there and sign up for everything and see what happens. Tragically our second night at the film festival was a bit of disaster with an horrendous self indulgent german art / ski film. It was so bad we actually left half way through. Fortunately the second film was outstanding and made up for the horrendous German film. If you get a chance to see Powderwhore's "The Pact". - do it. It received a standing ovation!

No late night partying for us tonight ...we have our first ski tour in the morning!!

Aaahaa! We've Found a Way to Slow Dana!

1/ Can you believe it? It's started snowing again!!

2/ Most of those are our tracks!!

Finally! We've found a way to slow the "unstoppable Dana"! Make her follow us down through the trees in deep powder snow on her short, skinny piste skis!! I know its unfair...but it's all about "survival of the fittest!" And that is surely not Graeme and I, when compared to Dana! I suspect that she may have even broken a sweat for the first time! Even more astonishing was her admission of tired legs at the end of the afternoon! Welcome to our world...Dana!!

Our incredible luck with the snow continues. Just as we really began to believe that spring had arrived, it started to snow again! The snow continued pretty much all day and while the visibility was poor, with a season's skiing under our belts we can always find sheltered tree runs.

3/ Andrew, Rick & Graeme!

We returned to Le Refuge for lunch after an awesome morning playing in the powder. I'm not sure whether Dana would describe her morning in quite those terms!

After lunch we met up with Rick and his very "popular" friend. I say popular, because Andrew is the MD of Bolle in Europe and Rick and all his friends including Graeme have benefited from some very well priced sunglasses and goggles thanks to Andrew.

Skiing to stumps we were rewarded with some late afternoon sunshine to match the pristine powder runs! Amazing!!

4/ Andrew doing some "field" testing for Bolle goggles!

Tonight we tried eating on the Slovakian timetable. Even though it was only 5 o'clock, as soon as I was in the door, I started to prepare dinner. I must agree that Dana might actually be on to something with this early eating idea. No snacking on junk food and plenty of time for the system to digest before heading to bed. Which I must admit was about 9 o'clock for us all. Even the mighty Dana was keen to "hit the hay"!

Refugio Mario Bezzi - Day 3

1/ Atop Truc Blanc -3405m

It was a sad farewell to Mario and his magical Refugio this morning but his delicious food and comfortable beds have revitalised us. The temptation to stay just one more day is almost overwhelming. But Christophe has another trip booked for tomorrow and must return to Les Carroz. C'est la vie!

Despite "day 3 legs" and a heavier pack, it turned out to be a better day on the hill for me. I conquered a many of my initial fears and postively zoomed up the icy slopes this morning. No "cup of adrenaline" for morning tea this time. Although the weather forecast is hinting at some bad weather on its way, today it's another pefect sunny day for the run home.

It was my turn to summit a little peak. Now don't get excited.... it was 55 m smaller than Graeme's Pointe Bassac Sud and I could skin up the southern face of my peak - Truc Blanc (3405m). But even better, I could ski down her sunny face in corn snow to the Col below where Graeme awaited us. After his supreme exertions yesterday, I fully understood why he decided to sit this climb out.

The views from the top, like Graeme's yesterdays, were breathtaking. Looking South-west over another huge bowl called the Gran Paradiso the ski touring is endless and can be linked by travelling from Refuge to Refuge through the mountain passes. Just incredible!

We had reached Truc Blanc by mid-morning and so, it was decided to make a start on our long descent back to the valley floor rather than to hang out at the Col where a cold breeze was blowing. Along the way, our trusty Christophe sniffed out all the nicest pockets of powder.

3/ Lunch and admiring our tracks

3/ On Colle di Giasson (3154m). "My" peak is above my head in this photo. Graeme's peak is to the extreme right of the photo and in the background!

The run home was truly amazing. While there had been some heli-skiing activity in this valley a few days previously, there was still plenty of lines to be had in the frost dried powder. Whoohoo! Check out the film footage - the 3 video clips of skiing in this valley are at the end of all the photos.

And to top off a perfect day, our last task was a fun ski down through the conveniently spaced spruce forest to the valley floor. From there it was a flat skin along the road back to the car. This was truly the longest skin we had done in 3 days...at least it seemed that way. I could see the dam wall, where Christophe's car was parked, but like a mirage - it just kept moving further & further away with every step that took!

But finally, we made it to the car, and to a gorgeous little hillside hotel for a congratulatory beer and then home via the Mont Blanc tunnel. I am sure that the drive home was as equally exciting as the journey here, but I couldn't tell....I was asleep!

4/ Skiing the trees, for the final leg home.

See No Evil, Ski No Evil

1/ And the snow continued over night!!...

Did we mention that it snowed again last night?

Ho Hum!! It's a tough job, but someone's gotta do it! Last day skiing at our home hill for Mike and Leanne. Mike was determined to make the most of it and wanted to ski to "stumps". The snow was a little heavier than we have had earlier in the week. "NZ Champagne Powder" I explained to Rick who was not finding the consistency to his liking. He was also not helped by the pair of children's skis (165cm) he had accidently taken from his friend's hire shop. Their width did not compensate for the lack of length as Rick found out!! (Isn't that always the way??)

We thrashed all our local haunts and even showed Rick a new run - "Telegraph Road" in Samoens - here's the footage. The sun even came out to join the party. Topped of by an afternoon panochet (beer & lemonade) on the deck of our mountain chalet. Perfection.

2/ Three Wise Monkeys!!

Despite the near perfect skiing conditions. There was some dissention in the ranks. An accusation of "Powder Poaching" has been levelled at this blog author! The only comment that I will make in my defence is that unlike the blokes, I don't need to mess about at the top of an untouched powder slope discussing routes, lines, snow consistency, equipment function ...or whether the planets are aligned!! For goodness sakes...if you tally the line will be poached by a pesky snowboarder. Sacre bleu!

Guilty as charged....!!

3/ A cheerful pair at the bottom of Telegraph Road!

Les Gets & the Best Salle de Hors Sac!

"Oooooh look it's snowing again!"

What Leanne was really saying was...."Damn...it's snowing again!!... that means I'll have to go skiing..Bother!!!" No need to explain what Mike, Graeme and I were thinking.

Today we decided to head over to Morzine for a trip down memory lane. Over 20 years ago, Mike lived and worked in Morgin (near Morzine but over on the Swiss side), a small resort included in the Portes du Soleil ski area. Morzine is only about 35 minutes drive from Araches and getting there is easy.

It's a vast ski area - 650 km of marked runs and about 230 lifts in total, spread over 14 valleys and about 400 square miles (1036 square km) of trails. We congratulated ourselves on our choice today. It was snowing heavily and visibility was poor, but the low elevation of Les Gets and Morzine meant that there was plenty of tree skiing.

Unfortunately, our first impressions of Morzine & Les Gets were not good. A sticky mixture of natural and man-made snow, the slopes packed with British tourists, and a dodgy morning-tea stop failed to enthuse us. But as luck would have it, we discovered the "locals side" of the hill in Les Gets - Mt Chery. The majority of Les Gets' black and red runs are here. There are no beginner runs. We learnt that the tourists generally stick to the Les Chavannes side of the hill. To our delight, there was no-one on the slopes and the snow was deep!

We even managed to find the nicest Salle de Hors Sacs. After a disappointing start to the morning, we were cold and spirits were flagging. At first we thought we'd have to eat our picnic lunch in the windswept corridor of the telecabine station. But with a little more investigation, I found the most delightful picnic room. As I have mentioned before, the majority of Salle de Hors Sacs we have found are dark smelly windowless rooms located next to the public toilets. In contrast, the Mt Chery room was toasty warm, clean and although near the toilets did not smell! There were lovely wooden benches & cupboards, red gingham curtains on the windows and local artwork on the walls. Very homey. And we were the only ones there.

Warm and refreshed, we were ready to ski the hill.

2/ The best Salle de Hors Sac - Mt Chery, Les Gets

3/ Powder Piggy #1

Did we mention that the snow was deep? Even Leanne converted to a "Powder Piggy" for the afternoon. There was some consternation however when we took a wrong turn and ended up on a black run instead of the intended red one. At times like this, I have always found it best for the relevant partner to make themselves scarce! Leanne was very brave and followed me down with minimal bad language. I have a sneaking suspicion that the outcome may have been different if Mike had been her escort!

We rewarded Leanne's outstanding efforts with a delicious hot chocolate in a lovely little mountain restaurant.... where we were served by...you guessed it...a lovely young Englishman!

4/ Powder Piggy #2 - Leanne!

French Observation

There are no French left in the Portes du Soleil!

Serious Snow, Sore Fingers and Leggies!!

1/ Nothing like digging out the car in the morning!!

The snow has arrived!! It's snowed all night. I was sure that Mike was beginning to doubt my previous blog entries about all the dumps of snow we've had previously!! I could see a frissure of doubt clouding his vision over the last few days as the snow discoloured and melted all around us. But today, after a good length of time on the end of the snow shovel Mike finally believed me. He was excited to get up the hill and amongst it.



The visibility was fairly poor but the snow was perfection. We organised ourselves with walkie-talkies and we were able to keep in touch when each of us dived off the runs for a powder run! By mid-morning we were pretty tired and cold. Poor old Mike had a frozen finger!! See picture.

3/ Mike's sore finger! C'est vrai!!

It just kept snowing all day!!! And we just kept finding more and more untouched powder snow. The crowd thinned significantly by the early afternoon and we had whole slopes to ourselves. Mike thoroughly enjoyed the deep snow. Here's some film footage of his skiing!

Needless to say, we were all a bit sore and sorry for ourselves after such a hard day. Leanne thought she might try some Yoga moves to get her stiff legs working again!

4/ Leanne performing a Yoga manouvre!!

We were all tucked up in bed at 9:30!! Aaah, this skiing holiday stuff is hard work!!

Yum, Yum more Pow!! The French don't do racks!

More powder skiing! Graeme whoops it up!!

Look I'm really sorry, but it just keeps snowing here!! It snowed all day yesterday and overnight. Another 30cm of light dry powder. Elbowed the septogenerian out of the way this morning and got first telecabine!!

We mentioned previously that our Grand Massif is like Cardrona. No-one skis off-piste and so we pretty much ski freshies all day. We have found a particularly good section which is accessed off a cat track connecting two ski areas. Terrific fall line where you can lay about 30-40 turns top to bottom. This morning we just put in set after set just going wider along the slope each time. And even better, no lift queue. In fact, for the first week of the french school holidays it is surprisingly quiet. If you are interested - here's today's footage.

French Observation

Ski Racks

It appears to us that the french don't do ski racks. Time and time again we see skis just thrown into the back of cars. When the cars are full, 4 pairs of skis & a snowboard are sitting on peoples shoulders and resting on the dashboard. You can tell that the car is full, their faces are pressed up against the glass!! Some of the "neater people" bring a brush and dust off their equipment before putting it in their car, but most don't. They just chuck it in snow and all.

Very strange I must say!

Bizarre Ski Equipment

Check out the upholstery on the ski-do's! Leopard skin print....nice!! I bet someone got a bargain with these puppies. Probably, Grand Massif resort bought them second-hand from an African dictator who ordered them but didn't realise you need snow to run them. Either that, or someone has appalling taste!! And there's not just one of them.....there's about 20 ski-do's parked at Samoens...all with styley leopard ski seats! Hmmmm!

Bluebird Day But Also Some Carnage Along the Way!!

1/ A Blue Bird day! Light fluffy snow!

We enjoyed another top up of snow overnight. About 15 - 20cm. In contrast to the wet & heavy snow we received on Friday night, it was top quality. Fluffy, light and dry. Yesterday evening, after our french lessons with Liz , we joined Rick in town for an aperitif. We also met up with a UK family who had actually been to Wanaka, albeit in the 90's. We enjoyed reminiscing with them, but warned that Wanaka was no longer the sleepy second cousin to Queenstown. There had been a lot of development in the last 10 years!! They may not recognise the place!!

Then it was back to Rick & Liz's for a delicious bowl of pasta. As always the conversation flowed and it appeared that we might be in for another big night. But just before we succumbed to temptataion, Graeme looked out the window to see that it was still snowing. We pulled the pin!It was going to be a powder morning. Well, as our diehard ski friends know... there are certain rules of engagement when a powder day is in the pipeline!!

Hallelujah!! It seems like we have breathed some life back into the old camera. It was working today, although it appears that the exposure was set too high given that some of our photos are quite washed out. Hopefully we can get this fixed soon! Buying a new camera is most definitely not in the budget!! But we think we may have the movie thing sorted. And while the footage will never be top quality given the size of our little camera, you can now actually see the skier. Always helpful!! Click on http://picasaweb.google.com/TeWanaka/ArachesWeek10?authkey=erJxyjT9YrI# for some of our little clips and commentary.

And the carnage?!! On our third run of the morning, Graeme managed to do a quite spectacular forward somersault off a steep slope and land on a beginners run, sprawled on his back! As breathtaking as the fall was, Graeme was completely unhurt, except maybe for his ego! His backpack had absorbed much of the impact. But alas, inside the backpack was his only pair of sunglasses! Bother!!

2/ The sacrificial sunglasses!!

Our quirky photo of today goes to a very well dressed English lad, who obviously decided to set a new fashion trend in ski wear today. Very stylishly dressed with suit and tie, he certainly caught people's attention as he skied down the slopes with his tie flapping over his shoulder!

3/ What every well dressed British skier is wearing this season!!

Daily Life at "Le Refuge": Over the last few weeks, Graeme and I have developed a highly efficient morning routine which ensures that we are always first in the lift queue and waiting for the gondola to open. It goes something like this:-

• 7.15 am - Alarm goes off. I get up, switch on the computer and put the kettle on.
• 7:25 - I call "Goodmorning" to Graeme, who, on hearing my dulcet tones generally pulls the duvet over his head and emits a low grunt.
• 7:25- 7:40 - I check the emails and report any important news to Graeme who has now snuggled even deeper under the duvet. It is rare that I receive any further acknowledgement or conversation at this point.
• 7:40 - Set the table for breakfast. Remind Graeme to get up.
• 7:40 - 8:00 Start to eat breakfast while listening to the moans and groans from Graeme as he finally gets himself vertical! At some point during this period, Gra will arrive at the breakfast table. After 17 years of marriage, I have learnt that it best not to try and make any conversation with my dear husband at this time of the day. I respond only when spoken to. (I suspect he wishes this was true for the rest of the day!)
• 8.00 - 8:15 - Make lunch and clear breakfast while Graeme does his ablutions.
• 8:15 - 8:20 Brush my teeth, hair (optional now that it's so short!!) and put on my ski gear.
• 8:20 - 8:30 Clear the car & sometimes the driveway of snow. Start the car to get it warmed up, load the skis and gear.
• 8:40 - Sit in the car and wait for Graeme.
• 8:45 - 8:50 arrive in Les Carroz park the car and join the lift queue.
  At this particular point Graeme has asked....WHO IS THE ONE WHO GROVELS IN THE SNOW, ICE AND MUD PUTTING THE CHAINS ON & OFF???? Point well made!!

4/ Attempted self portrait of me clearing the car of snow this morning!!

The Early Bird Gets the Powder in France!!

1/ At the bottom of Les Gouilles (the "Goolies")

It really pays to be first on the slopes in France. The French are not early risers! While there was no more serious snow overnight, yesterday, we had spied an area in Samoens that had remained closed all day due to the high avalanche risk. The area faces due north ("the dark side!!) and has some good vertical . It is serviced by a classic old triple chairlift called Les Gouilles (we've knicknamed it the "Goolies"!!). Even on a perfectly good day, the operation of the Goolies is somewhat erratic. We have a sneaking suspicion that it closes for lunch (12:30 - 2pm) regardless of the snow or weather conditions. Classic!!

We had 5 fabulous runs in totally untracked knee deep powder by 10:30am when those pesky snowboarders arrived and swept half the snow down the mountain as they side slipped down the steep bits! I will refrain from making any prejudicial comments against snowboarders...but I'm sure you know what I am thinking!! To be fair there were a few good ones amongst them who were doing some beautiful lines through the rock chutes. Unfortunately, they were in the minority!

At the foot of the Goolies chairlift is a really cute little chalet/gite called Le Luge du Teran - not quite sure of the translation. Designed in the old style it is actually brand new. The bar lady was very friendly and the coffee was good. The lunch menu is also tempting. Even better, the prices look very reasonable. We had our cheapest coffee on the mountain so far E$2.80 for 2 espressos. Comparing it to E$6.80 for the same thing at Megeve, it was a bargain!

2/ & 3/ The very cute "Le Luge de Teran"

The sun had come out and after morning tea, we headed over to another shady face on Samoens which has become a favourite. It's a steep face and it's difficult to see what's over the edge when you leave the piste. Ideal!! We had taken a few runs down it yesterday and expected it to be tracked out, but no, the punters had left it alone and we enjoyed a pile of runs and a couple of good crashes as we completed the task of tracking it out!! There's some footage of Graeme on the lower section. He is having a mighty splendid time!! Click on http://picasaweb.google.com/TeWanaka/ArachesWeek10?authkey=erJxyjT9YrI## if you want to see live footage. We have been playing with our camera and we think we may have slightly improved the quality of image. Fingers crossed!

We will confess to being completely exhausted by 1:30pm and headed home for an early lunch.... and quite possibly a "Nana Nap". The sad but inescapable truth is that the ol' bodies are not as young as our minds!!

4/ Heading home through the sunlit trees! Magic!!

Redemption by Powder..and the inverted helicopter manouvre

1/ Graeme knee deep!

Warning! For all those bored by endless snow pictures - Skip today's blog!!

Thank you dear Lord!!

And so...the rain turned to heavy snow overnight. Over 30cm of snow fell at Le Refuge (our place -1020m) between 11pm and dawn. Our ski hill, Les Carroz was reporting even more!! You can't imagine the excitement! Graeme, for whom the "season was over" and "all this rain is going to ruin the snow" awoke with a big smile! I knew that the snow was good because my dear little sleepy head was actually first out of bed first this morning. A rare event indeed. Tragically, I was still the one who had to do the "bread run" down the hill but with heavy snow fluttering down all around me it was a magical trip.

I really can't say too much about today, the pictures really speak for us. We just had endless, first tracks from first lift until we met up with Rick & Liz and Gavin and Sue around 1pm. Graeme was particularly proud of his tracks under one of the chairlifts!!

2/ Andy "crotch deep"...well I am shorter!! And in case you're wondering - they are all our tracks behind us!!

Well I've never had a "cold crutch" before. The snow was so deep, my unmentionables were being constantly washed with snow. A new experience to be sure. But certainly a tricky place to warm up. It's not that socially acceptable to be giving this area a good rub in public, if you know what I mean?!!

A wonderful attribute of the Grand Massif ski area is that you have a choice of altitude. Today while it was snowing heavily and the visibility was poor there are loads of runs through the trees. Later in the morning when a thick fog came in lower down the mountain, we could head up above the tree line to clear skies and sunshine. Fantastic!

As always, when the snow is deep, the snow marmots are busy under the snow. They were desperate to trip us up all morning. Consequently, we all had some spectacularly good crashes in the soft snow. Just like falling into feather bed, but a little more tricky to extricate yourself from. The photo below captures the aftermath of a particularly special tumble. But if you would like to see live footage of the incident [you'll have to excuse the poor video quality] click on this link and have a look at the video http://picasaweb.google.com/TeWanaka/ArachesWeek9?authkey=llalfG8Xzd0#

3/Snow marmot Andy?

For those who have viewed the video, you will see that I have now patented the "inverted helicopter manouvre!". Despite being hilariously funny, it is actually, a great way to extricate yourself from a deep powder hole. The idea is that there is no point trying to move your skis around while they are stuck in the snow. Get them in the air, where there's no resistance and swing your legs downhill. Then worry about the torso, arms, poles, goggles ..etc later.

It is so successful that I thought that I would share my secret with our mates! Photo below is Sue - admirably performing Andy's - "Inverted helicopter manouvre"!

4/ Rick!! Will you stop laughing!!

P.s. It's still snowing! - early to bed for the Oxley's tonight!