Oxleys in Araches, France: Refugio Mario Bezzi - Day One

I have a strong feeling that our ski touring trip to Refugio Mario Bezzi will be a highlight of our European skiing holiday. There was not a cloud in the sky when we set off this morning and the forecast looks good for the next few days. We are headed to the Italian side of the French Alps, basically out the back of the famous french resort of Val d'Isere.

As usual the most terrifying part of the journey is the car travel. Christof noticed yesterday that I spent most of my time in the backseat with my eyes shut tight. Christof is quite multi-talented! Not only is he a mountain guide, but he can also drive a Landrover Defender at rally speeds down a mountain, while talking on his mobile phone, searching for a CD to play from the overhead visor, changing gears and pointing out all the relevant mountain peaks and couloirs we pass! Meanwhile in the back seat, I am grabbing for the "Oh Jesus Bar" and praying to whoever might be the patron saint preventing car accidents! This morning, Christof asked "Tu est fatigue?" My answer - "Non, merci. Je suis desole, mai, j'ai peur!" Christof: - "C'est etrange? On n'est pas dans la montagne encore?" But kindly, Christof took the hint and slowed to what he later termed a "grand-mere vitesse" and I could allow the blood to flow once more into my knuckles!!

Thanks to the handy Mont Blanc Tunnel we are in Italy in 25 minutes from Araches. Basically heading down the Aosta valley, we turned north west up a valley to Valgrisenche (45° 38′ 0″ N, 7° 4′ 0″ E ). At the end of the valley is a deserted dam. This is where we parked the car and began our climb into the Mario Bezzi Refuge.

The Dam wall is really just a historic relic - it no longer holds back any water. Ever since the Vajont dam disaster in 1963 when a landslide caused a tidal wave to wash over a dam wall, killing 2000 people, high alpine dams, which can be vulnerable to landslides or avalanches, have been banned throughout Europe. Someone might like to mention this to the Clyde & Alexandra residents???

1/ Looking north to the main French Alps with the defunct Valgrisenche Dam in the foreground.

While, Christof has been to this area a few times, it is only the second time with clients. Most clients don't like the long flat walk up the valley into the hut - about 3 hours. We didn't mind at all. The weather was truly magnificent and the valley vistas - amazing. Huge icefalls clinging to the valley walls, historic villages, and the only the steady rhythm of our skis sliding on the snow to break the silence.

For the first time in the European Alps, we were alone!

2/ The incredible valley views! Check out that icefall!!

3/Lunch on a roof - interesting!!

Lunch was enjoyed sitting on the roof of a summer residence now buried in snow and abandoned for the winter. The sun was deliciously warm and it was hard to resist the temptation to take a quick kip in the sunshine.

But we had another 2 hours of ski touring to go to climb up to the Refuge at 2284m. It was around 4pm when we reached the Refuge. OMG!! I had seen pictures on the internet of this place but I really had no idea what it was going to be like.