Wednesday, April 1, 2009

A Striptease, A Lesson and A Delicious Dinner in Livigno



1/ An uninspiring Strip-tease!!

The La Skieda crew of telemark skiers (all 1,300 of 'em) are an eclectic bunch. Racers, jibbers, old hippies, the young & the old from all corners of the globe.
And today we were treated to a wonderfully extroverted group of telemarkers from Sweden (where else?) who liked to get naked in public. Standing on their tables during the peak lunch hour at the Refuge Carosella, they put on a fine show. It's always a time consuming process to rid oneself of all your ski gear. Personally, it was taking so long, I lost interest and went for coffee. I think from the few photos Graeme took, he wasn't that impressed either. I mean to say, looking at the photo, we are not talking prime beef cake here..are we??? Nevertheless the crowd, egged on by the band, went suitably wild.

We confess to a late start to the day this morning. We didn't get to bed until midnight (very very late for us) after seeing some of the award winning films from the most recent Banff Mountain Film Festival. All manner of extreme mountain sports were featured, climbing, skiing, paragliding, speed skiing, skydiving and base jumping. The main feature film was about 3 Base Jumpers (An Australian, American and Norwegian) who travel to the heart of China to freefall 2km into a gigantic cave. An interesting armchair glimpse into the psyche of men with a serious death wish!!


2/ Andy : "You want me to do what? On Telemark Skis - you gotta be kidding?"
After lunch we joined John Falkiner again for a Telemark Clinic called "Balance before Power". His theory is that, if you are balanced, then you use much less "power/energy" to drive the telemark skis. Sounds great in theory. I'm keen to learn any technique that will reduce the excrutiating thigh burn I experience every time I don the "Misery Sticks".

The afternoon consisted of some hilarious exercises : - handclapping, buddhist chanting (Om Bar Cha, Cha, Cha) and arm waving. Most of the exercises had to be done with our boots completely undone, in "walk" mode and without our poles. Other routines included skiing on one ski while lifting the uphill ski and placing it down as gently as possible during your turn - The "Cat Step". Lastly John had the whole class hurtle down a mogul field yelling "Ding Dong" over each bump like a bunch of crazed Avon sales ladies! By this stage I'm starting to get suspicious that we are secretly being filmed for the "candid camera" segment of the La Skieda festival?

I still have a long way to go before I am truly efficient at this telemarking caper, but Graeme enjoyed the clinic and found a number of the exercises really useful. But the best thing about the afternoon was meeting up with a lovely Italian couple from the Aosta valley (near Chamonix). Daniela is a psychologist and Luciano a ski instructor. Interesting combination to be sure. But they were delightful. Daniela spoke perfect english and Luciano spoke perfect "ski english" as he called it. Just don't ask him to explain Italian politics in English!!

We had plenty of time to get to know each other as part of the lesson also included stopping for a beer at a mountain top restaurant. Typical La Skieda fashion!! Needless to say the last lesson on the run down the mountain was fairly challenging with loose boots, no poles and a beer in our bellies!!

2/Andy, Daniela and John & others on the "beer stop" part of John's Clinic!!

And finally after a good cup of tea and a lie down, we frocked up for a special mountain top dinner. Graeme and I, are constantly in awe of the organisation of this huge event, but it was entirely due to some lucky connections that we managed to get into this dinner. Let me explain.

We are staying in the home of the Zini Family- a 3 story old fashioned apartment complex which, apart from our flat, is occupied entirely by Zini's. Aunts, Uncles, daughters & son-in-laws. Truly the European way. The Zini family, as we have been learning, are quite famous in the Livigno Valley. Everyone in the village seems to know Genni, who manages our apartment for her family. Genni's sister, now retired, was a famous speed skater and won a bronze medal in the last winter olympics.

As it happens, Genni is a telemark skier too, and she has taken the week off work to go to join the party that is La Skieda Festival. We keep running into her at various events and have enjoyed snippets of conversation with her. On the night of the special mountain top dinner, we realised that although we had booked the dinner when we registered, the flustered receptionist had failed to give us the tickets we needed to gain entry. We were with Genni when we realised this. We were so lucky that she was able to explain what had happened to the door attendants and plead our case for us...in Italian! We would have been lost without her help and doomed to have missed an incredible experience in the mountains. What luck to have been staying with her!!

As I have mentioned before.. these Italians really know how to cater. I guess I always knew this having grown up in Melbourne with many Italian friends, but this mountain top dinner for 200 or so people was really something. 4 courses, with wine and coffee all included in the price of our festival ticket. What a bargain!

Ours was a truly multi-cultural table. To our left were 3 young french couples from Geneva, and to the right, an older (60's) immaculately dressed Swiss mountain guide (Fritz..yes seriously), and then a team of wild french/spanish boys from the Pyrenes and La Grave who produce hand-made wooden skis. [I still didn't find out which one was Vincent!! ]. Across from us was a German chemistry professor, a mountain guide from Conneticut and his aircraft engineer wife. I told you that telemarkers are an eclectic bunch!! Needless to say the conversation was wonderfully interesting.


"Guess the German?"

To top off the night we caught the cable car down with Genni's father, Guido, who unfortunately does not speak a word of English. But also sharing our cabin was another lovely local couple who were also friends of Genni's. They had been to NZ and Australia and we enjoyed a lively conversation about their experiences on the long ride down the mountain.

What a day, what a night? How are we going to be up at the crack of dawn for the next ski tour??


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